Penang, an island and state in northeast Malaysia, delights visitors with a rich multicultural history full of colonial, Chinese, Malay, Indian and other influences. Penang is also well known for being the "food paradise of Malaysia." It's no surprise that Penang is one of Malaysia's top tourist draws-you'll want to add it to your itinerary too.
Getting to Know Penang
History and Orientation
Penang-originally known as Pulau Ka-Satu, or "First Island"-was part of the Malay state of Kedah until 1786, when the English Captain Francis Light built a fort on the site of present-day Georgetown on Penang Island and had the island ceded to the British East India Company. Along with Malacca and Singapore the island was one of the three British Straits Settlements.
Light renamed Penang Island as Prince of Wales Island on August 12, 1786, to commemorate the birthday of the Prince of Wales (later George IV) and the capital he called Georgetown in honor of King George III. It wasn't long before Penang got the nickname, "the Pearl of the Orient."
The current name "Penang" comes from the modern Malay name Pulau Pinang, which means "island of the betel nut tree." In Chinese, Penang is known as Binchéng, and in the Hokkien dialect of Chinese, Peng Sheah. All three names can refer either to the island of Penang, the state of Penang or sometimes the state capital, Georgetown. Almost all places of interest to tourists are in or near Georgetown on the island.
You'll see many examples of colonial-era row houses like these in Penang
Geographically, the state of Penang is divided into Penang Island and Province Wellesley (also known as Seberang Perai in Malay), a narrow strip of land on the Malaysian peninsula. Penang Island is 182 square miles and separated from the mainland by a channel which, at its narrowest, is 2.5 miles across.
People
Penange has about 1.5 million people and is the only state in Malaysia where ethnic Chinese, rather than Malays, form a plurality. Indian Malaysians make up about 10 percent of the population.
A colorful, swirling mass of Hindu gods at a temple in Penang
Jewish and Armenian communities were found in Penang before World War II, but these largely dissipated as a result of the Japanese occupation and the creation of the State of Israel in 1948. A small but commercially significant community of German merchants also existed in Penang. Today, Penang has a sizeable expatriate population, especially from Japan and Britain, among which are many retirees.
The Peranakan, also known as the Straits Chinese or Baba-Nyonya, are the descendants of the early Chinese immigrants to Penang. They have partially adopted Malay customs and speak a Chinese-Malay creole. The Peranakan community possesses a distinct identity in terms of food, costume, rites, crafts and culture. Most of the Peranakan Chinese are not Muslims but instead practice ancestor worship and Chinese religion. During British rule, the Peranakan had a reputation for being loyal British subjects and many of them adopted British mannerisms, distinguishing themselves from the newly-arrived Chinese. Though almost extinct today as a result of their assimilation into the mainstream Chinese community, the Peranakan live on in their great cuisine, their intricate costumes and exquisite handicrafts.
A dazzling sight: A Chinese temple lit up at night
When to go
Penang's high season is around Christmas, New Year's Day and Chinese New Year (which falls at the end of January or early to mid-February), when the east coast of Malaysia is drenched in seasonal rains and hordes of sun-seeking Europeans descend on the island. Accommodation tends to be packed, and priced accordingly.
Things to See and Do in Georgetown
Orientation
The touristic heart of Penang is Georgetown, the capital of the Pearl of the Orient. The best way to experience Penang's mixed heritage is to stroll around town and see the beautiful old buildings with their columns and multi-coloured Peranakan tiles and crumbling walls. You'll be surrounded by the sweet smell of incense from the city's many temples and the sound of Muslim calls to prayer emanating from the city's mosques.
Georgetown is in no hurry, and restaurants, small shops, and malls don't fully open until around noon. Early risers may find that Chinese dim sum stalls are their only breakfast option. Enjoy Georgetown's relaxed pace and take time to soak up the old city's charms.
Historic buildings
* Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion: Built in the 1890's, this famous indigo-blue Chinese Courtyard House in Georgetown was the residence of Cheong Fatt Tze, a prominent Chinese figure in the newly established Penang straits settlement during the 19th century. The mansion was built by master craftsmen brought in especially from China, who used their skills to fashion the mansion with 38 rooms, 5 granite-paved courtyards, 7 staircases and 220 windows. The house won UNESCO's Asia-Pacific Heritage Award for Conservation in 2000.
* Municipal Council building (formerly City Hall): This building is a well-preserved colonial edifice from the heyday of the British Empire, built 1903 for huge sum-100,000 Straits Dollars.
The Municipal Hall building is a spectacular example of British colonial architecture
* Fort Cornwallis is built on the site where Captain Francis Light, founder of Penang, landed on August 11, 1786. The current star-shaped structure dates from 1810. The only buildings still standing are the outer walls, a gunpowder magazine, and a small Christian chapel. In the magazine you'll find an exhibit of photos and historical accounts of the old fort.
* Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi: Immigrants from South China, the Khoo family first built a clan house here in 1850, although the current building dates from 1906. The richly ornamented carvings of the roofs, walls and pillars reflect the art and architecture of ancient China and are made of the finest wood.
Khoo Kongsi clan house is a showcase of Chinese architecture from the early 20th century
* Penang Islamic Museum: This museum is located in the Syed Al-Attas Mansion, a century-old mansion that was named after its owner, a spice trader from Acheh, in present-day Indonesia.
* Penang State Museum: Located near Fort Cornwallis in a 1906 school building, the museum exhibits paintings by the artistic Captain Robert Smith and the lovely engravings of William Daniell. The collection also includes an antique Penang Hill railway carriage, a handwritten Koran, and old Malay weapons.
* The Pinang Peranakan Mansion was originally the home of Kapitan Chung Keng Kwee, a leader of several Chinese groups in a local military conflict of the 1860s and 1870s. The mansion is a typical representation of the Straits Eclectic style of architecture, highly favored by rich Peranakan families of old.
* Queen Victoria Clock Tower: This 60 foot high clock tower was presented to Penang by local millionaire Cheah Chen Eok in 1897 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria.
Clocktower The clock still keeps time after more than 110 years of operation
Religious sites
Not surprisingly for a cultural melting pot like Georgetown, there are religious sites of many faiths throughout the city.
* Wat Chaiya Mangkalaram was founded in 1845. One of the world's longest reclining Buddhas (about 100 feet) resides within this Thai-styled temple. The temple was built on a piece of land given by Queen Victoria as a gesture of goodwill to boost trade relations with Thailand.
Wat Chaiya Mangkalaram is a reminder that Thailand and its cultural riches are just to the north of Penang
* Dharmikara Burmese Buddhist Temple, located opposite of Wat Chaiya Mangkalaram, was built in 1805. A pair of elephants (sacred beasts in Buddhism) guard the entrance while within a bodhi tree and wishing pond greet the visitor.
A beautiful gold relief carving of a reclining Buddha
* Kapitan Keling Mosque: Built in the early 19th century, it was named after the Indian Muslim merchant Caudeer Mohudeen, who was also the Kapitan Keling (headman). It is the most prominent historic mosque in Penang and features a dome-shaped minaret reflecting Moorish Islamic influence. The Kapitan Keling Mosque is the place of worship of the Indian Muslim community, whose members have lived and worked around the mosque for over two hundred years. Unlike modern mosques which are mainly frequented on Fridays, the Kapitan Keling Mosque is used by woshippers five times a day, seven days a week. Extremely well maintained next to its rundown neighborhood, tourists can get free tours of the mosque during non-prayer times. Be prepared to take your shoes off. Women must wear a heavy robe provided by the staff.
Mosque is one of the most important religious sites in Penang
* Kuan Yin Teng ("Goddess of Mercy Temple"): This is one of the oldest and most popular Chinese temples in Penang. Built in 1801 by early immigrant settlers from China, the building is decorated with intricately crafted dragons and a pair of guardian lions in stone. Kuan Yin Teng is flocked by pilgrims and followers all year round, particularly on the first and fifteenth day of each lunar month. In front of the temple there is a lovely square where puppet shows and Chinese operas are staged on the Goddess of Mercy's feast days. The square is always a center of bustling activity. An octagonal well in one corner was once a public well for the Chinese community.
The sweet fragrance of incense such as this in front of Kuan Yin Teng temple will be an unforgettable part of your visit
* St. George's Church: Built with convict labour in 1818 and named after the patron saint of England, it is the oldest Anglican Church in Southeast Asia. The building was designed by Captain Robert Smith, a military engineer whose oil paintings of early Penang can be seen in the Penang State Museum. A memorial in the form of a Greek temple with a marble slab dedicated to Captain Francis Light stands in the grounds of the church.
Adding to Penang's religious potpourri is St. George's Church, serving members of Penang's Christian population
Other Things to See
* Penang Bridge International Marathon: If you're in Penang at the right time (usually early summer), you can watch thousands of participants run the marathon over the the Penang Bridge (the third longest bridge in the world) and along a scenic coastal highway. The bridge, which connects Penang to the mainland, closes each year for the marathon.
* The Penang International Dragon Boat Festival has been staged annually since 1979 and has successfully attracted teams from all over the world including Australia, China, Hong Kong, Japan, Indonesia, the Netherlands, the Philippines, South Africa, Thailand and the USA.
The annual dragon boat races, held each summer, are a fun and colorful spectacle
* Penang Hill (in Malay, Bukit Bendera): Penang Hill probably has the best view of Georgetown and Penang Bridge, especially at night. Go up via the Penang Hill Railway, a fascinating little cable train service that lifts you out of the heat and humidity of the coastal plain and up to a fabulous view and cool breezes. When you reach the summit you can walk around the hilltop, stop for tea, enjoy a leisurely lunch, buy a souvenir, photograph Georgetown and the Strait of Malacca, or simply breathe deep lungs-full of cool mountain air.
Riding the cable train to the top of Penang Hill is a delightful break from the heat of the city (flickr user SqueakyMarmot)
* Kek Lok Si ("Temple of Supreme Bliss"): A rambling hillside structure that claims to be the largest Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia, it now also features a recently-completed (2003), giant statue of Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. Colorful and gaudy, but still atmospheric in spots. It's located near the village of Ayer Hitam,so you'll need to catch a taxi from Penang to get here.
Be sure to bring your camera to Kek Lok Si, where the sights are huge and in vivid technicolor
Shopping
There's no shortage of modern shopping malls in Penang for all your needs, but try to visit some of the many small street markets as well. Here are two options:
* Little India, at the junction of Market Street (Lebuh Pasar) with King Street and Queen Street, is a market more than 200 years old. Here many traditional Indian traders sell all sorts of Indian traditional wares such as saris, garlands, trinkets, sculptures, Indian music, handicrafts, Punjabi suits, Singhalese silverwares, stainless steel housewares and accessories. Spicy Indian food such as roti canai or thosai are available at street-side food stalls.
* The Little Penang Street Market is held on the last Sunday of every month, from 10 a.m.-6 p.m.at Upper Penang Road. Visitors can find many handcrafted items such as silverware, clogs, henna art, seashell art, hand-painted clothes, hand-made jewelery, calligraphy, batik, and more. There's also live music, a "kid's corner" and other interesting activities.
Eating
Penang island is a paradise for food lovers who come from all over Malaysia and even Singapore to sample the island's unique cuisine, earning Penang's reputation as the food capital of Malaysia. Penang's cuisine reflects the Chinese, Nyonya, Malay and Indian ethnic mix of Malaysia, but is also strongly influenced by the cuisine of Thailand to the north. Its especially famous "hawker food" is sold and eaten right on the street and prominently features noodles and fresh seafood. Local Chinese restaurants serve excellent fare, too. American fast food outlets and coffee joints are readily found throughout the state, and Japanese, Korean, Italian and other Western food are also popular.
Having a basic Malaysian vocabulary of menu items is extremely helpful. Be sure to print out a translation of Malaysian words for common foods, such as chicken, beef, pork, noodles, rice, etc., or bring a phrasebook with a dictionary.
Here are some local specialties:
* Or Chen: An oyster omelette, this is a dish popular nationwide and available in multiple locations all around Georgetown.
* Pasembor: Although the name means "mixed fruits," this dish does not contain any fruit. Instead, it consists of cucumber and your chosen ingredients covered in spicy peanut sauce. You can choose to add squid, sausage, tofu, crackers, crabs, potato, eggs, and fish cake, just to name a few possibilities.
* Lor Mee: Yellow noodles in sticky brown colored gravy, lor mee is unique to this part of Malaysia and a must-try. It is commonly served with shreds of chicken breast, pork slices or other organ meats, but you can request to have the meat left out.
* Lobak: Very famous in Penang, Lobak is a spiced meat similar to sausage. You can choose the accompanying dishes of tofu, fish cakes, Taiwan sausages, century egg (rotten duck egg, but very tasty if eaten with ginger) and others. Locals dip lobak in sweet sauce and chilli sauce. It's available all over Penang, and the quality is usually good.
* Hokkien Mee: Two types of noodles in prawn and pork soup with slices of pork, prawns, hard boiled egg, vegetable, beans sprout and sprinkling of deep fried shallots.
* Asam Laksa: A noodle soup that comes with sour broth flavored with tamarind, pureed fish, fruits, veggies and a generous helping of chilis mixed in. Watch out, the combination is powerful and will have the uninitiated breathing fire!
* Penang Char Keow Teow: A local interpretation of the ubiquitous stir-fried flat rice noodles, tossed with bean sprouts, cockles, and anything else the chef has handy.
* Koay Teow: Flat rice noodles in clear chicken soup with slices of chicken, pork and fish cake. Garnish with chopped spring onions. Some places offer duck meat and other organ meats as extras.
If you need a quick snack, the roasted peanuts at the hawker stalls are extremely tasty and cheap. And don't forget to ask the locals about some of their favorite meals and restaurants. This way, you're guaranteed great dining experiences to go with your visit to Penang.
A delicious bowl of asam laksa. People who love to eat will be spoiled for choice in Penang, the "food paradise of Malaysia"
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