Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur, or simply KL, is the capital of Malaysia. Literally meaning "muddy estuary" in Malay, KL has grown from a small sleepy village to a bustling metropolis (population 6.9 million) in just 150 years. With some interesting sights, the world's cheapest five-star hotels, great shopping and even better food, increasing numbers of travelers are discovering this gem of a city.

Getting to Know Kuala Lumpur

Located on the west coast of peninsular Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur lies at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers. KL is a fairly sprawling city with residential suburbs that seem to go on forever. The adjacent towns of Petaling Jaya (originally developed as KL's dormitory suburb), Subang Jaya, Shah Alam, Klang and Port Klang, have merged with KL to create a huge metropolis called the Klang Valley.

Weather

Protected by the Titiwangsa mountains in the east and the Indonesian island of Sumatra to the west, Kuala Lumpur has a year-round equatorial climate which is warm and sunny. Rainfall is plentiful-usually more than 93 inches a year-and especially heavy during the southwest monsoon from September to April. Temperatures tend to remain constant. Maximums hover between 88°-99°F and have never exceeded 99°F, while minimums hover between 71-74°F and have never fallen below 66°F.

People

Kuala Lumpur has a mix of different cultures. Unlike the whole of Malaysia, where Malays comprise the ethnic majority, the majority of Kuala Lumpur residents are Chinese. Additional major ethnic groups represented include Indians, Eurasians, as well as other indigenous races from East Malaysia and the Malaysian peninsula.

Malay (Bahasa Melayu) is the official language but English is widely spoken in the city, especially in business and tourism, and is a required subject in all schools. Malays form the bulk of the members of parliament and dominate the political scene in Malaysia.

A Malay woman being prepared for her wedding (flickr user buntalshoot)

In the late 18th century, with Europe in the midst of the Industrial Revolution, large groups of Chinese from Fujian and Guangdong in southern China were brought to Malaysia (then called Malaya) to work in the booming tin mining industry. The Chinese in Kuala Lumpur mostly speak Cantonese with some speaking the Hakka dialect. Like all residents, the Chinese have benefited from Kuala Lumpur's excellent public school system and can communicate in English and Bahasa Malaysia as well as Mandarin.

Indians formed 10% of the population in Kuala Lumpur in 2000. First brought in by the British during their colonization of Malaysia, most Indians practice Hinduism and speak Tamil or Hindi and English. The majority of their customs and traditions are intricately tied with their religion. Hence, during the Hindu festivals such as Deepavali, Indians perform colorful rites and visit temples.

In the Thaipusam festival, devout Hindus skewer portable shrines to their bodies and carry them all the way from central KL to the Batu Caves--a distance of about 8 miles

The city has many places of worship catering to the diverse religious population. Islam is practiced primarily by the Malays and the Indian Muslim communities while other religions present in KL include Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism (mainly among Chinese), Hinduism (among Indians) and Christianity.

With the rapid growth of the economy in Kuala Lumpur and across Malaysia, a large number of foreign workers from Indonesia, Nepal, Burma, Thailand, Bangladesh, Vietnam and China have also emigrated to Malaysia, adding to the cultural and linguistic stew.

History

Founded only in 1857 as a tin mining outpost, Kuala Lumpur is fairly new as far as Malaysian cities go and lacks the rich history of Georgetown or Malacca. After rough early years marked by gang fighting, Kuala Lumpur started to prosper and was made capital of the Federated Malay States in 1896. Malaysia's independence from Britain was declared in 1957 in front of huge crowds at what was later named Stadium Merdeka (Independence Stadium), and Kuala Lumpur continued as the new nation's capital. The economic boom of the 1990s brought KL the standard trappings of a modern city, including towering skyscrapers and efficient transportation systems.

Things to See and Do

Although Kuala Lumpur boasts some fascinating sights, many of the best experiences are to be found by wandering randomly, sightseeing, shopping and eating your way through the city. However, it's hot, humid and sometimes crowded, so schedule some air-conditioned downtime in shopping malls or restaurants into your plan. You may find that most attractions are only crowded on weekends and holidays and deserted on weekdays.

The following gives a brief description of KL's attractions by district:

City Center: This is the traditional core of Kuala Lumpur and the former colonial administrative center. Here you'll find Merdeka Square (Independence Square), the Sultan Abdul Samad Building and Selangor Club. This district also includes Kuala Lumpur's old Chinese commercial center which everyone refers to now as Chinatown.

• Merdeka Square (Dataran Merdeka): Merdeka Square has a special place in the hearts of all Malaysians, for it was here that the Union Jack was lowered for the last time in 1957 and Malaysia gained its independence. Surrounding the area are a number of historical structures like Sultan Abdul Samad building (see below) and the Old City Hall. The Royal Selangor Club and St. Mary's Cathedral are two famous landmarks nearby.



Merdeka Square has special meaning for all Malaysians (flickr user SqueakyMarmot)

• Sultan Abdul Samad Building: Originally the offices of the Colonial Secretariat, the Sultan Abdul Samad Building later served as the first administrative center of the Malaysian government. Built in 1848 by British architects, this historical landmark is famed for its Islamic-inspired architecture. Today, it houses the Courts of Law. The 120-foot high clock tower is a popular gathering point for New Year's and National Day countdown celebrations and parades.



A view of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building from across Merdeka Square

• National Mosque (Masjid Negara): The Masjid Negara is unique in that it incorporates Malay-Islamic rather than the usual Arabic-Islamic architecture. It is known for its conspicuous turquoise umbrella-like roof. Visitors are asked to dress modestly--robes for those in shorts and head scarves for women will be provided.



The national mosque in Kuala Lumpur offers a fascinating look at Islam in Malaysia (flickr user Balaji Dutt)

• National Museum (Muzium Negara): This museum contains exhibits on traditional life of the various ethnic communities in Malaysia, numerous well-explained artifacts including fine clothing and shadow puppets, and a sizeable natural history section showing the range of flora and fauna native to the country.
• Islamic Arts Museum (Muzium Kesenian Islam): One of the most interesting museums in KL, the Islamic Arts Museum shows how Malaysian Islamic culture is connected to the Muslim lands to the west and also celebrates the uniqueness of Malaysian Islamic art.

Chinatown: Kuala Lumpur has a vibrant Chinatown that should definitely be on your list of places to see.

In Chinese culture, these red lanterns above the street symbolize good luck (flickr user akuppa)

• Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Association: The Yuen family built this clan house (kongsi), the largest and oldest in KL, in 1906.



The colorful Chinese architecture on display here is a delight to see (flickr user cornstaruk)

• Sze Ya Temple: Built in 1882, Sze Ya, the oldest Chinese temple in the city, is dedicated to Shen Kong, the guardian deity for the local Chinese tin miners, and several other deities. The ornate interior and elaborate roof ridges are typical of religious Chinese architecture and visitors can still see patrons worshipping gods and ancestors.
• Sri Mahamariamman Temple: This elaborate Hindu temple is known as the starting point of the yearly Thaipusam pilgrimage to the Batu Caves north of the city, when Hindu devotees haul portable altars pierced to their skin with 108 lances.



Sri Mahamariamman Temple, with its beautiful Hindu carvings (flickr user Prince Roy)

Golden Triangle: The area of Kuala Lumpur located to the northeast of the city center, the Golden Triangle is where you'll find the city's shopping malls, five-star hotels, the Petronas Twin Towers and party spots.

• Petronas Twin Towers: Until recently the tallest buildings in the world, they are now second only to the newly built Taipei 101 building in Taipei, Taiwan. Visitors may pick up passes to marvel at the view from the Skybridge (level 41-42), one of the highest suspended bridges in the world. But note that in general you only have about 10 minutes on the Skybridge, and the views at the KL Tower (see below) are actually better.



Completed in 1998, the Petronas Towers ranked as the highest buildings in the world until 2004 (flickr user peter.macdonald)

• Aquaria: A gigantic aquarium housing 5,000 varieties of tropical fishes, Aquaria has an underwater tunnel, various exhibits of flora and fauna, and multimedia kiosks.
• Petrosains: A museum of the science and technology behind the petroleum industry, located in the Petronas Towers. A great place to bring kids, but it shouldn't be too high on the agenda for older folks.
• KL Tower: 1,100 feet above ground, the observation deck on the top floor provides great city views, and you'll actually be a few dozen feet higher than the Petronas Towers since the tower is built on a hill. Traveler's tip: The views from the KL Tower are far superior to those from the Petronas Towers, though KL Tower is not a particularly easy place to reach by public transport.



The KL Tower, 1,381 feet tall if you include the antenna, is the fifth tallest tower in the world

Tuanku Abdul Rahman: This is the traditional, colorful shopping district of Kuala Lumpur north of the city center that moves into high gear during the festivals of Hari Raya Puasa (Eid ul-Fitr) and Deepavali.

Brickfields: This area, located south of the city center, is Kuala Lumpur's Little India, filled with saree shops and banana leaf rice restaurants. Kuala Lumpur's main railway station-KL Sentral-is also located here.

• Thean Hou Temple: The Thean Hou temple is one of the largest and most ornate Chinese temples in the region. The six-tiered temple is dedicated to Tian Hou, or The Heavenly Mother. But it also houses two other altars, one for Shui Wei Sheng Niang, the Goddess of the Waterfront and another for Kuan Yin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Its grand architecture and fantastic views make it a tourist favorite.



The photogenic Thean Hou temple

Bangsar and Midvalley: Located south of the city, Bangsar is a popular restaurant and clubbing district while Midvalley, with its mega mall, is one of the city's most popular shopping destinations.

Damansara and Hartamas: Largely suburban, these two districts to the west of the city are home to some interesting restaurants and drinking areas.

Northern suburbs: This huge area to the north of the city is home to several attractions, such as Batu Caves, the National Zoo and the Indigenous Peoples Museum.

• Batu Caves: Hindus have used these caves as temples since their discovery in 1878 by William Hornaday. Crowds of Hindus visit the caves in January and February for the spectacular Thaipusam festival, when devout Hindus skewer portable shrines to their bodies and carry them all the way from central KL, about 8 miles away. The caves contain a large number of beautiful statues of the Hindu gods, with a golden, 130 foot statue of Lord Muruga at the entrance. Beware of the thieving monkeys and the bat droppings in the cave, and be prepared to climb 272 stairs to access the cave.



Batu Caves is a fascinating natural wonder and an important Hindu temple, as well as a nice excursion out of the city center (flickr user peter.macdonalsd)

• Muzium Orang Asli (Indigenous Peoples Museum): A quaint museum situated on Orang Asli land that showcases the cultures of the different peoples indigenous to Peninsular Malaysia. Over 3,000 artifacts reveal the history and lifestyles of the many tribes which occupied Malaysia before the advent of urban society. Definitely worth the journey.

Shopping

There's some great shopping to be done in Kuala Lumpur. Goods are available in every price bracket, and while electronics are a tad more expensive than in Singapore or Hong Kong, they are still often cheaper than in Europe. Kuala Lumpur's premier shopping district is the Bukit Bintang area in the Golden Triangle, named after the street of the same name.

Fans of electronic gadgets will delight in the multitude of choices at Low Yat Plaza, while shoppers hunting for the latest in affordable Asian style should definitely check out Times Square and Sungei Wang Plaza. Pavilion is a recent addition to the cluster of shopping malls in this area and houses a wide range of international retail brands in an ultra-modern complex.

Despite the onslaught of malls, KL still offers traditional shopping streets and markets. The best area for browsing is Chinatown in the City Center. Good souvenirs can be found in particular at the Central Market, a former produce market which has been converted into an arts and crafts market.

To really get a feel for Kuala Lumpur, be sure to spend some time among the crowds at street markets like this one (flickr user MyLifeStory)

Eating

Malaysians are obsessed with food and so it is hardly surprising that as the country's capital, Kuala Lumpur reflects this love affair with eating. You'll be able to find the entire range of Malaysian cuisine as well as food from around the world.

Tasty Malaysian snacks like these await you in Kuala Lumpur (flickr user SqueakyMarmot)

Here are a few options:

• Food stalls: "Coffeeshops" (kedai kopi) operate like a foodcourt with many stalls selling a variety of food, most of which is Chinese. Some coffeeshops offer streetside dining by placing their tables on the sidewalks. Coffeeshops are found on virtually every street in KL, but Chinatown in the City Center and Jalan Alor in the Golden Triangle have the greatest concentration. Be aware that they mostly open only at night.
• Mamak shops: Rivaling the coffeeshops in terms of their numbers, as well as in their prices, are what Malaysians call "mamak shops"--food outlets run by Indian Muslims. They can be found at almost every street corner in KL, although the Tuanku Abdul Rahman neighborhood is particularly well-known for its mamak shops. The food is halal, meaning it conforms to Muslim dietary laws.



Street vendors provide a quick, inexpensive way of getting both a meal and a cultural experience (flickr user Luca & Vita)

• Food courts: Clean and air-conditioned, the food courts found in shopping malls can also provide you with a good opportunity to sample Malaysian cuisine, although the prices will be a little higher than in coffeeshops or mamak stands.

• Restaurants: KL has a good number of restaurants, some of them offering better food than others. The Golden Triangle, Bangsar and Midvalley, Heritage Row and some areas in Damansara and Hartamas are the usual places for people looking for a restaurant meal. Beware that most restaurants close by 10 p.m., so you'll probably need to look for street food if hungry later at night.

An unforgettable image from Kuala Lumpur--the Petronas Towers illuminated